I’ve recently returned to sewing apparel (been a long break since junior high!). I’m slowly relearning skills and adding new ones. This is the Fairmount Shacket by Hey June Handmade – an oversized shirt jacket.
I used a super cute double-brushed flannel called “Breakfast Buddies”, lol. Art Gallery flannels are the BEST – sooo soft.
I relied heavily on the notes from Zoe Ocean (here’s her notes). I cut the sleeves on a single-layer, but everything else cutting the usual two-layer. My fabric is directional, so that ate into the yardage a bit.
Speaking of, there are no mentions of using directional fabric in the pattern so I had to think about layout when cutting, especially on the cuffs and collar. Remember, that the neck edge of the collar needs to be upside down on directional fabric so that when it is folded down, it is correct. It will look upside down when you sew it but not when it is worn.
I cut the yoke facing out of white Kona cotton because if I would have used the flannel, the print would’ve shown through since it’s white. A solid cotton eliminated that – and it’s less bulky. Will probably do this on all makes going forward if using flannel.
I realized when I was readying my machines that I didn’t have any white Mara 70 topstitching thread, so I sewed this completely with Mara 100. I like to use the heavier Mara 70 for topstitching but since this fabric had a pattern I wasn’t worried about making the topstitching stand out. I used a 90/14 needle and a walking foot.
Since flannel frays, I sewed the side seams and armholes using a ⅝” SA which was then flat-felled. The pattern says ⅜” but since the shacket is oversized, I just used ⅝” without making any other changes. The instructions say to serge the armholes, but since the rest of the jacket was finished so nicely, I decided to continue with the flat-fell. A curved armscye makes it tricky, but I think it turned out okay.
Sewn on my Juki TL-2010Q except for the buttonholes – used my Janome 4120QDC for those. Gotta love an automatic buttonholer.
Oops, I messed up one of the cuffs by not having the binding lay back on itself. I always roll up my sleeves so I wasn’t even going to add buttons/holes to the cuffs so hopefully this isn’t noticeable. You can see my mistake in the photo below.
This pattern is incredibly well drafted! All the pieces are parts aligned perfectly. I bounced around a bit in terms of construction order and, in parts, followed the links in the pattern for a more detailed description of steps.
I made a size 6 based on finished garment measurements, but I think my next one I will size down to a 4 and will take 2″ off the sleeve length. I shortened the front and back bodice and button placket by 3.5″ and I think that’s a great length for my short torso.
- Pattern: Fairmount Shacket, Hey June Handmade
- Fabric: Breakfast Buddies in Snug, Double-Brushed Flannel, AGF Studio for Art Gallery Fabrics
- Thread: Gutermann Mara 100, Wawak
- Buttons: ¾” resin, Amazon
- Pocket Label: Kylie and the Machine
- Machines Used: Juki TL-2010Q, Janome 4120QDC